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| Scotland
Scotland
SCOTLAND
The northern part of the island of Great Britain is
Scotland. Rugged uplands separate it from England to the south. Within this
border country the Scots fought many wars to keep their independence. In 1707
Scotland joined with England, and the entire island became a single kingdom,
Great Britain. The Scots, however, remain a distinct people, and they have a
long history different from that of England.
Scotland is a land of romance. It contains ruins of
many ancient castles and abbeys, and there is a haunting beauty in its windswept
mountains, long deep valleys, and ribbon lakes. It attracts many tourists,
particularly from the United States and England. Scotland is a poor country,
however, a land in which it is difficult to make a living. Perhaps that is why
it has bred such a vigorous people.
The coast of Scotland is deeply pierced by inlets
from the sea. The larger inlets are called firths. Long, narrow inlets are
called sea lochs (lakes). On the rugged west coast the sea lochs are framed by
great cliffs and resemble the fjords of Norway.
Numerous islands line the coast. In the north are two
large groups, the Orkney Islands and the Shetland Islands. Close to the west
coast are the Hebrides group, Arran, and Bute. (See also Orkney Islands;
Shetland Islands.)
The land may be divided into three regions: the
Highlands in the north, the central Lowlands, and the southern
Uplands.
The Highlands are wild and picturesque. Their rocky,
barren summits were chiseled by Ice Age glaciers and the rainfall of many
centuries. Purple heather clothes the lower slopes in late summer. The valleys
are usually steep-sided glens, with a long, narrow loch at the bottom. A long
valley called Glenmore crosses the Highlands from southwest to northeast. The
Caledonian Canal links this valley`s lochs to form a waterway from the Firth of
Lorne to Moray Firth. South of the Highlands are the Grampian Mountains, highest
in the British Isles. Ben Nevis, the tallest peak, rises to 4,406 feet (1,343
meters). Better known is Ben Lomond, which rises from the shore of Loch Lomond,
Scotland`s largest lake.
The central Lowlands are not large. From southwest to
northeast the greatest length is nearly 90 miles (145 kilometers), but they are
only 30 miles (48 kilometers) across the narrow waist of Scotland from the head
of the Firth of Clyde in the west to the Firth of Forth in the east. These
firths provide valuable outlets to the sea but constrict communications from
north to south into the waist. The soil is fertile, and four coalfields underlie
the area. Here is Scotland`s chief farming district and also its largest cities.
In the east is Edinburgh, Scotland`s historic capital. In the west is Glasgow,
hub of a great industrial area. Almost 90 percent of Scotland`s population live
in the Lowlands.
In the southern Uplands the hills are less than 2,000
feet (600 meters) high. Their rounded or flat tops are often capped with dark
peat. The slopes are covered with grasses as well as heather. Along this border
England and Scotland meet. In the west the boundary runs from the Solway Firth
across the crest of the Cheviot Hills. In the east it follows the River Tweed
almost to its mouth. The Tweed Valley is the chief gateway into England. The
English people often refer to Scotland as of the Tweed.
Climate
The wind is usually from the southwest. It blows over
the North Atlantic Current, a continuation of the warm Gulf Stream. This makes
the climate warmer than it would otherwise be so far north. The average
temperature in January is about 40 F (4.4 C); in July it is about 58 F (14.4
C).
The mountainous west coast has the most rainfall. Ben
Nevis, which is close to the coast, has an average yearly rainfall of 171 inches
(434 centimeters). The east is drier and sunnier. The wettest seasons are autumn
and winter. June is the finest month, and June days are long.
People
The Highlanders are of Celtic descent, and about
90,000 of them still speak Gaelic, an ancient Celtic language (see
Celts). The Lowlanders are much like the people of northern England. They speak
English, but their Scots dialect is distinct. The Scots have a reputation for
being thrifty, cautious, and careful of detail. They are far from being all
alike, however. Scotland is a country in which individualism
flourishes.
Most of the churchgoing people belong to the national
church of Scotland, which is Presbyterian. The congregation of each kirk
(church) chooses its own minister after a trial, and every member of the church
has some share in governing it. In general, sermon and prayer occupy a larger
place in the church service than ritual and music. The Roman Catholic church has
many members in the Glasgow area, which has a large Irish population. The
Episcopal church of Scotland resembles the Church of England but is an
independent body. Other denominations include Baptist, Methodist, and
Congregational Union.
Education
The Scots have a great respect for learning, and
their history is full of people of humble birth who acquired university
educations. Education was made easier for poor students by the Scottish-born
American industrialist, Andrew Carnegie. He set up the Carnegie Trust Fund in
1901 to help needy students and to foster research.
The Scottish educational system, like the legal
system, is different from that of England. Education is free from nursery school
(3 to 5 years) through secondary school. At about 12 years of age the student is
tested to determine entrance to a junior secondary school (12 to 15 years) or to
a senior secondary school (12 to 18 years). The senior schools lead to the
professional schools and the universities. Scotland has eight universities, the
oldest being St. Andrews, founded in 1410. Edinburgh is known for its school of
medicine. The University of Glasgow emphasizes science and
engineering.
Life in the Highlands
On the northwest coast and on the islands there are
tenant farmers called crofters. The crofts (small farms) are usually on or near
the coast. Houses are built of stone gathered from the hillsides. They are
roofed with corrugated iron or a thatch of reeds and heather. Peat cut from the
moors furnishes fuel for cooking and heating.
On these crofts barely enough food can be produced
for the farm families. They therefore dislike waste and have earned reputations
for being extremely frugal. They are good farmers, but rugged ground, poor soil,
and excessive rain restrict crops to oats, potatoes, and barley. They add to the
family food supply by fishing in lakes and streams if inland or in the sea if
near the coast. They raise sheep on the hills and pasture a few cattle in the
glens. In other parts of the Highlands, large sheep or beef cattle farms
predominate.
In August the tourist season begins in the Highlands.
People from the Lowlands and from England flock there to fish for salmon and
trout or to hunt deer and grouse. The crofters then work in hotels or serve as
guides, boatmen, or gillies (hunters` attendants).
The Highlands are sparsely populated. For centuries
many of the young people have been leaving the crofts to find work in the
industrial Lowlands or to emigrate to other countries. The government is trying
to check this trend. Its reforestation program, for example, gives part-time
work to crofters at the same time that it improves timber
resources.
Hydroelectric plants on the swift streams furnish
light and power for homes and factories. Some of the power is transmitted to the
industrial Lowlands. An atomic-research station is at Dounreay on the north
coast. It supplies power for a large aluminum plant. In southern Scotland
electricity is generated in a nuclear plant located at Hunterston. Major
industries in the Highlands are the weaving of woolens and the distilling of
Scotch whisky, which is made from barley.
Gatherings of the Clans
In early days the rugged land led to the separation
of the Highlanders into small groups called clans. Each clan was ruled by a
chief. All the people of a clan had the same surname, which often began with Mac
such as MacDonald, MacKinnon, MacLean, or MacLeod. The clansmen wore kilts
(short, pleated skirts) which are suitable for climbing the rough hills, and
blankets for cloaks. Each clan had its own colorful pattern called a tartan for
weaving cloth. (These tartans are now commonly called plaids, and they are
marketed throughout the world.) Today the kilt is not a crofter`s dress but a
national costume, proudly worn for special occasions.
The gatherings of the clans draw many visitors,
especially to Inverness, which is called the capital of the Highlands. At these
gatherings athletes wearing kilts compete in such ancient Highland sports as
throwing the hammer and tossing the caber, a long, heavy pole. Bagpipers and
Highland dancers add color and interest to the gatherings.
Culture
It has been argued that Scottish culture is merely a
regional variation of the dominant British culture, but the Scottish culture has
elements of independence. Edinburgh`s international festival of music and drama
has been a major event since 1947, though Scotland`s own contribution to the
festival has been modest. The Scottish National Orchestra and the country`s
opera and ballet companies, which are supported by the Scottish Arts Council,
have been widely acclaimed. The Glasgow School of Art is world-famous. The
architect and designer Charles Rennie Mackintosh (1868-1928) studied there and
later designed its buildings (1896-1909).
Scottish writers have had the choice of three
languages: Scottish Gaelic; Lallans, or Lowland Scots; and English. The
20th-century poets Sorley Maclean and George Campbell Hay led a Gaelic revival,
but a Lallans revival that developed after World War I has faded. After World
War II a new generation of Scottish poets was called the Lallans MaKars
(makers). The most notable Scottish poets who wrote in Lallans and English were
Robert Fergusson (1750-74) and Robert Burns (1759-96).
Scotland`s national sport is golf, which developed in
the east (see Golf, History. Association football, or soccer, however, is
the most popular game. The football game rugby is also played in the south. A
traditional sport is the so-called gameof curling, which is played on ice
(see Curling).
Cities
Scotland`s great industrial area centers on Glasgow,
its largest city (see Glasgow). On the banks of the River Clyde below the
city are world-famous shipyards that once produced every kind of ship. A fall in
demand and overseas competition, however, have caused a major decline in the
industry. In Glasgow and the cities clustered around it are iron and steel mills
and other metal plants, engineering works, machinery factories, chemical works
and textile mills. Heavy industries were once based on the iron ore and coal
deposits of the Lanarkshire field near the city. Today the iron ore is virtually
exhausted, and ore must be imported. The Lanarkshire coal is also depleted, but
more is available in fields around the Firth of Forth. The traditional heavy
industries of southern Scotland have become less significant, but a new major
electronics industry has created considerable employment for people who live in
that area.
The industrial area of Glasgow almost meets that of
Edinburgh to the east. Edinburgh also has engineering industries, but it
specializes in light manufactures printing, paper (made from imported wood
pulp), beer, and biscuits (see Edinburgh). North of Edinburgh across the
Firth of Forth are Dunfermline, which manufactures linen; Perth, known for its
dye works; and Dundee, which specializes in jute manufacture and marmalade.
South of Edinburgh in the Tweed Valley are manufacturing towns that produce
woolen cloths. Cotton spinning and weaving have declined, but the North Sea
petroleum industry has created new jobs in the building and servicing of oil
platforms, terminals, and refineries.
Glasgow is by far the largest and busiest port.
Following it in volume of foreign trade are Leith, Grangemouth, and Dundee.
Freight also moves to England, Wales, and Northern Ireland by coastal vessels
and by rail and road.
Scotland`s great international airport, Prestwick, is
on the west coast southwest of Glasgow. Other major airports are at Edinburgh
and Glasgow.
Farming and Fishing
Around the Firth of Forth lies Scotland`s richest
agricultural area. Here large well-managed farms produce wheat, oats, barley,
potatoes, vegetables, and fruits. Scotland`s disease-resistant seed potatoes are
highly prized in England.
Grass is the chief crop in the southern Uplands. The
major product therefore is livestock. In summer thousands of sheep roam over the
hills. In winter they are folded into the valley farm. The farmers grow roots
and other fodder crops in the valleys. In the southwest the climate is mild and
rainy. Here are great dairy farms that furnish milk for the Glasgow area and for
cities in northern England. At central points, such as Dumfries, are cooperative
creameries. Waste products are returned to the farms to feed
pigs.
Fishing towns are scattered all around the coast of
Scotland and the islands. The chief fishing port is Aberdeen on the east coast
(see Aberdeen). Traditional fishing for herring has declined. White
fishing for cod, haddock, plaice (flounder), and hake is carried on by deep-sea
trawlers year-round. Lobsters, found in rocky pools, are plentiful on the
northwest coast. They are caught in baited wicker traps.
How Scotland Is Governed
Scotland is a part of a monarchy the United Kingdom
of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (see United Kingdom). It has no
parliament of its own. It elects members to the British House of Commons, and it
is also represented in the House of Lords. The central administration is in the
hands of the secretary of state for Scotland, a British Cabinet officer. The
secretary heads an office in Edinburgh, the capital of Scotland, for handling
the country`s domestic affairs. Local government is in the hands of burgh
(incorporated town) councils.
The Scots still have their own law. It derives from
the Roman code and is quite different from that of England. The supreme civil
court, called the Court of Sessions, dates from 1532. It sits in Edinburgh in
the old Parliament House.
History
The history of Scotland begins in the 1st century AD,
when the Romans invaded Britain. The Romans added southern Britain to their
empire as the province Britannia. They were unable, however, to subdue the
fierce tribes in the north. To keep these barbarians from invading Britannia,
Emperor Hadrian had a massive wall built across the island from sea to sea. The
Romans called the land north of the wall Caledonia, and they called the people
Picts from the Latin piclus, meaning because they painted their bodies.
Parts of Hadrian`s Wall still stand on the Scottish border.
In the 5th century Celtic immigrants from Ireland,
called Scots, settled north of the Clyde. The Scots were already Christians when
they left Ireland. In the next century St. Columba converted the king of the
Picts to Christianity. In the 9th century Kenneth MacAlpine, king of the Scots,
added the Pictish kingdom to his own. In about the 10th century the land came to
be known as Scotland.
After the Normans conquered England in 1066, many
Anglo-Saxons from England settled in the Lowlands. Here the Scots gradually took
on English ways. Feudalism was established, and the chiefs of the clans became
nobles. Towns grew, trade increased, and Scotland prospered.
War of independence. In 1290 Margaret, heiress to
the throne, died. Thirteen claimants contested the Crown. Edward I of England
claimed the right to bestow it and made John de Baliol king. When Edward asked
John for help against the French, however, John entered into an alliance with
France. For 260 years Scotland held to this so-called alliancewith England`s
enemy.
Edward crossed the border in 1296, took John de
Baliol prisoner, and proclaimed himself king of Scotland. To symbolize the union
he carried off the ancient Stone of Scone, on which Scottish kings had long been
crowned, and placed it in Westminster Abbey where it still lies beneath the
coronation chair.
The Scots rose again. Led by William Wallace, they
routed the English at Stirling Bridge in 1297 and pursued them across the
border. The next year Edward returned and inflicted a disastrous defeat on the
Scots at Falkirk. Wallace was later captured, and the English hung his head from
London Bridge. (See also Wallace.)
The Scots` spirit was still unbroken, and they soon
found another great champion in Robert Bruce. The last great battle in the war
for independence was fought in 1314 at Bannockburn near Stirling Castle. There
Bruce inflicted a disastrous defeat on superior English forces led by Edward II.
In 1328 Edward III formally recognized Scotland`s independence. (See also
Bruce, Robert.)
In the later Middle Ages Scotland suffered from weak
kings and powerful nobles. For two centuries there was a constant struggle
between the Crown and the barons. Border clashes also continued. James IV of
Scotland married Margaret, daughter of Henry VII of England, in 1503. This
marriage led to the union of the Crowns of both countries in 1603. When Henry
VIII went to war with France, however, James IV invaded England. He fell, with
arrows,at Flodden Field in the last great border battle (1513). James V died
brokenhearted after his army had been slaughtered at Solway Moss (1542). The
throne went to his infant daughter Mary Stuart.
Reformation and its consequences. Meanwhile the
Protestant Reformation had swept across Europe and into England. Scotland was
still a Roman Catholic country. Its young queen, Mary Stuart, was in France when
John Knox returned home to Scotland from Geneva, Switzerland. Knox was a
follower of John Calvin, one of the leaders of the Reformation. With fiery
eloquence he spread Calvin`s Protestant doctrine. When Mary returned, Knox and
others drove her out of Scotland, and she fled to England. Queen Elizabeth I
made her a prisoner and finally had her executed. In 1560 Scotland`s parliament
adopted a confession of faith drawn up by Knox and established the Church of
Scotland on a Presbyterian basis. (See also Calvin; Knox; Mary, Queen of
Scots.)
Mary Stuart`s son, James VI, was brought up as a
Presbyterian. When Queen Elizabeth of England died in 1603, James inherited the
throne of England. In England he was called James I. The two nations were thus
united under a single king, but Scotland remained a separate state with its own
parliament and government. There was no free trade between England and Scotland,
and Scots were excluded from the profitable commerce with England`s growing
empire. (See also James, Kings of England; Stuart.)
England tried repeatedly to impose the Anglicans`
episcopal form of worship and church government on the Scottish kirk. The Scots
took up arms against Charles I. When civil war broke out in England, they aided
the Puritans against the king. After Oliver Cromwell executed Charles I,
however, the Scots welcomed Charles`s son as Charles II. Cromwell then marched
into Scotland and imposed his rule. When Charles II was restored to the throne,
persecution of Presbyterians continued. (See also Charles, Kings of
England, Scotland, and Ireland; Cromwell, Oliver.)
Finally, after James II had been driven from the
throne, Presbyterianism was firmly established as Scotland`s national church.
The Highlanders long remained loyal to the exiled Stuarts. In 1715 they
attempted to restore the house of Stuart to the throne; James Stuart, known as
the Old Pretender, was proclaimed James III. In 1745 they supported his son,
Charles Edward, known as the Young Pretender. The youth became famous in
Scottish song and story as Bonnie Prince Charlie. (See also
Pretender.)
Union with England. The age-old rivalry between
Scotland and England ended abruptly in 1707 when the parliaments of both nations
agreed to the Act of Union. This act merged the parliaments of the two nations
and established the Kingdom of Great Britain (see United
Kingdom).
Scotland now had free trade with England and the
colonies. As Britain`s empire expanded the Scots played a great part in its
development. They also shared in the inventions that brought about the
Industrial Revolution and in the wealth that flowed into Britain from it.
(See also Industrial Revolution.)
The end of the 18th century was Scotland`s most
creative period. David Hume won world fame in philosophy and history, Adam Smith
in political economy, and Robert Burns in poetry. In the next generation Sir
Walter Scott made the land and history of Scotland known throughout the world.
(See also Burns; Hume; Scott, Walter; Smith, Adam.)
The history of modern Scotland is inseparable from
that of England (see England, . Scotland, however, has its own special
problems, and a movement has grown up to establish some sort of home rule. The
Scottish National party, which favors the setting up of a legislature for purely
Scottish affairs, won increasing popular support during the 1960s but a majority
of Scots vote for the Labour (Socialist) party.
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